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Sample Bavarian & Bohemian Christmas Markets – Even By Train 10 Sep 10 German Christmas markets have become almost a cliché, especially seeing the crowds at Munich, Nuernberg, Cologne etc. But Bavarian Forest Holidays (http://www.bavarian-forest-holidays.com/ChristmasMarketBreaks.php) have come up with a different angle: a long weekend on any of the 4 Advent Weekends before Christmas not only offers the comfort of accommodation in a 5 star village apartment but also the opportunity to visit Christmas Markets in the smaller towns and villages of Bavaria and Bohemia as well as the bigger markets in Passau and Regensburg. Even Nuernberg and Munich can be included, as well as the floating market at Vilshofen on the Danube and the forest market at Schweinhuett. Each weekend can be tailored to suit the preferences of a family or group. And most of the markets can be visited by great value German public transport – so no restrictions on testing the Gluehwein! Accommodation is in the pretty Bavarian Forest village of Bayerisch Eisenstein, directly on the border with Czech Republic. Prices for 3 nights 5 star accommodation (excluding travel and meals) range from €200 for a couple in a one bedroom apartment, up to €425 for 6 people in a 3 bedroom, all ensuite apartment. A welcoming glass of Gluehwein will help to get you in the mood. And, of course, award winning* Bavarian Forest Holidays can advise on travel by rail to and from the UK as well as to and from the Christmas Markets.
British couple Margaret Leach and Martin Holborow have seen off competition from all over Germany to take the Fahrtziel Natur (Destination Nature) special award for 2010.
(GERMANY) 3rd September 2010 – The Fahrtziel Natur (Destination Nature) special award is for the accommodation provider doing the most to encourage guests to use public transport to travel to and within a nature area in Germany, in this case the Bavarian Forest. The couple own and manage 9 holiday apartments in the Bavarian village of Bayerisch Eisenstein, under the name of Bavarian Forest Holidays (http://www.bavarian-forest-holidays.com/).
Guests in their apartments have free use of buses and trains on more than 1,000 km of routes in the Bavarian Forest. Guests are given a specially written tourist information book containing details of travel to numerous destinations in the area and region by public transport. Guests from the UK and other European countries are also encouraged to make the whole journey from their homes by train by providing cheaper tickets than are available to the general public.
The village can be reached from most major cities in Europe within one day. Since the first guests made their way to the village by train from the UK in autumn 2007, the travel time from London and Kent has been reduced to 11 hours – “breakfast in London, dinner in Bayerisch Eisenstein”. A further reduction in travel time is expected when the Deutsche Bahn starts running trains through the Channel Tunnel, hopefully by 2012.
On arrival, by whatever means of transport, guests find accommodation which is of a very high standard – most apartments have been awarded 5 stars by the German Tourism Association – but also eco friendly. Three of the four houses have solar panels and two have wood pellet heating. The houses have the latest double glazed windows and other insulation. Guests are asked to place their rubbish into specially marked boxes for recycling and the small on-site guest shop stocks organic food wherever possible.
The couple, whose UK home is in Knighton in the Welsh borders, bought their first property in the village, 1km from the Czech border, in 2004. The other three houses were added in 2006 and 2008 and in total now offer 9 holiday apartments with 1-3 bedrooms, central guest facilities with shop, free book and DVD library, coffee lounge with home made cakes and meeting room, all open to guests 24/7.
More than 2,000 guests have come to the apartments in Bayerisch Eisenstein since the first one was opened in April 2005. Nearly 50% are from the UK, 25% from Germany and 12% from the US and the remainder from 25 other countries. The apartments are open all year, for sightseeing in Germany, Czech Republic and Austria, walking and cycling in the National Parks on both sides of the border and boat trips on the Danube, Christmas Markets, Christmas/New Year, winter sports and activities. Since autumn 2009, Bavarian Forest Holidays has been a Partner of the Bavarian Forest National Park.
Fahrtziel Natur is a cooperative project between the major Germen environmental organisatons BUND, NABU, VCD and Deutsche Bahn (German railways) which has been actively promoting eco-friendly sustainable travel together with experiencing nature, since 2001.
For more information see http://www.bavarian-forest-holidays.com/ or email info@bavarian-forest-holidays.com or call Margaret Leach on +49 (0)9925 90 32 04 (UK) 07976 403434
Photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25231786@N08/sets/72157624875934456/
with our permission to use in conjunction with this press release.
This is probably the most difficult time of year in the Bavarian Forest. The snow is almost always good for skiing and snowboarding until the end of the Easter weekend. But guests are rare at this time of the year – apart from a flurry around Easter weekend. And when you venture down from the mountains, you can see why. Spring is in the air. There are drifts of snowdrops and crocuses. The grass is not only visible but often very bright green. Along one road we travelled yesterday, above the Isar valley, heading for the Danube, we even came across low, green toad fences along the side of the road, making sure that none got run over, directing them to the little tunnels provided for them under the road. And the garden centres add to the problem: racks of spring plants, trees in pots, lots of new pots and gadgets, garden furniture and, of course, the seeds, with their over bright photos of perfect crops. Each trip away from the mountains, seems to involve bringing a little more ‘spring’ back with us – a few more pansies, some particular attractive pots and, of course, some more packs of seeds.
And as we climb back up into the mountains after our trip down into spring, the snow becomes thicker and even the fresh snow from this last week is looking a little grubby. And when we look at the gardens, the depth of snow is still so great that we wonder how long it will take for snow to melt and the ground to defrost. At least the days are getting longer and the temperature is rising. Even though it is unlikely that we have had the last snow fall of the season! Not surprising that the visitors have decided that skiing is something to plan for next season.
Christmas Markets
Within reach of Bayerisch Eisenstein are some of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Germany.
German Christmas markets tend to be half food and drink stalls and half present/decoration stalls. They are best in the late afternoon/evening when all the lights are on. For Germans, they are more a social occasion then a shopping opportunity, especially the local ones.
We have given the markets we have visited a ‘star’ rating based on how pretty they were and how much we enjoyed our visit.
Daily Markets
PASSAU (1 hour drive)
28th November – 23rd December 2008.
Monday-Thursday 10.00-20.00, Friday-Saturday 10.00-21.00 Sunday 11.30-20.00
On the square in front of the cathedral in the middle of the romantic old town. Lovely setting, varied stalls. Performances by musicians every day.
Star rating: ****
REGENSBURG (1 hour 30 minutes drive)
29th November – 23rd December 2008, open daily 10.00-20.00
3 Christmas Markets:
Neupfarrplatz:
A 400 year tradition of Christmas markets here. Many local specialities, including berry Gluehweins from the Bavarian Forest and apple gluehwein from the Oberpfalz, local sausages (including ‘half meter’ sausage in a baguette!), Lebkuchen, toasted almonds, roasted chestnuts and more.
Star rating: ***
Haidplatz: Lucrezia Arts & Crafts Market
Thurn & Taxis chateau Medieval style market
Many craftsmen demonstrating their skills and a wide range of food and drink, including a hog roast. One of our favourities, very different from any other we have been to. Less commercial than the main market.
27th November – 23rd December 2008 Monday-Wednesday 12.00-22.00, Thursday-Saturday 12.00-23.00m Sunday 10.00-22.00 Entrance costs €3.50-5.50, children 6-16 €1, under 6 free
Star rating: *****
NUERNBERG (2 hours drive)
28th November – 24th December 2008
Monday-Thursday 09.30-20.00, Friday-Saturday 09.30-22.00 Sunday 10.30-20.00 (Christmas Eve 09.30-14.00)
The most famous Christmas market of all and one of the oldest. Plastic garlands and tapes playing continuous Christmas music are banned! 200 stalls selling traditional gifts, food and drink.
We rate this one of the very best. Very high quality stalls. The main market is in the Hauptmarkt. In a smaller area to one side is a market with stalls representing all of Nuernberg’s twin towns, of which there are many including 2 in Italy, plus Macedonia, USA, China, Glasgow and many more. An added bonus is a ride on a horse drawn post coach, painted bright yellow. The short ride costs €3 per adult and €1.50 per child.
Star rating: *****
DEGGENDORF (40 minutes drive)
28th November – 23rd December, open daily 10.30-20.00/Sundays 12.00-20.00
Apparently voted one of the 10 most beautiful markets in Germany. We thought it was very poor and not worth bothering with. Deggendorf itself has a very pretty central area and good shopping and is worth a visit.
Star rating: –
MUNICH (2 hours drive)
28th November-24th December 2008
Monday-Friday 10.00-20.30, Saturday 09.00-20.30, Sunday 10.00-19.30 (Christmas Eve 10.00-14.00)
Bayerisch Eisenstein
2nd International Christmas Market on 4th Advent Sunday – 21st December 2008. 12.00-19.00
Star rating: *****
The first weekend in advent is the start of the Christmas season in Bavaria. In our village, Bayerisch Eisenstein, deep in the Bavarian Forest on border with the Czech Republic, this is how the season goes. This weekend, the decorations start to appear on and in people’s houses. Coloured lights are almost unknown here but white lights are quite widely used – strings of white lights draped around the balconies or cascading down like icicles, or draped around outdoor trees. The autumn decorations of greenery, pine cones and candles are dressed up. On the Saturday, there is an advent market in the Waidlerhuette, our local ‘village hall’, selling decorations, presents, cakes and biscuits, even home made schnaps. The ladies of the village bake huge quantities for every event and would put most WI markets to shame. They have even produced their own cookery book.
The first weekend in Advent is when the big, daily Christmas markets in the cities get going – Nuernberg, Munich, Regensburg and Passau all have lovely markets within easy reach of here – 2 years ago we sampled all of them (especially the Gluehwein!), to make sure we could recommend them to visitors! Although you can buy presents at the big Christmas markets, the main function of most Christmas markets, and especially the smaller ones, is social – groups of friends and families meet to chat and sample the Gluehwein and various specialities offered in the wooden huts by local clubs and societies, farms and small producers. The markets get going as darkness falls and continue until mid evening. During December, the smaller towns and villages have their own Christmas markets for just a weekend or even just a day.
6th December is the name day of St. Nikolaus. But ‘der Nikolaus’ actually comes on the evening of 5th December, with his companion, a little devil called ‘Krampus’. Nikolaus brings small presents, nuts, oranges and apples to the houses in the village for the children. Sometimes the children recite a poem or play a piece of music for him. Nikolaus then lists the good and bad things the children have done during the year, often in the form of a rhyme. The Krampus may punish them if they have been particularly bad during the year! An old tradition in Bayerisch Eisenstein is ‘Nigeln’. Children or adults go out on the streets on the evening of 5th December, dressed as Krampus, and others tease them and are then chased. The children enjoy this as they have to try to escape.
In mid December, before the holiday season started, our village had a big Christmas party for the whole village in the village hall. The ladies baked again and various musical and singing groups in the village provided entertainment – from the Kindergarten children singing about the ‘Weihnachtsbaeckerei’ to the men of Regenhuette singing local forest songs.
The Christmas celebrations really got underway in Bayerisch Eisenstein on 21st December, with a concert in the beautiful Catholic Parish Church of St. Nepomuk. A brass ensemble played haunting music, interspersed with harp music and songs.
On 23rd December, more than 1,000 visitors – residents of the village and surrounding area and holiday guests – visited the 1st International Christmas Market in Bayerisch Eisenstein. The international theme was chosen to celebrate the location of the village in the centre of Europe and directly on the border with Czech Republic, previously site of the barbed wire of the ‘iron curtain’, which finally disappeared on 21st December when Czech Republic joined the Schengen area. As well as Bohemian specialities from over the border, visitors enjoyed Bavarian specialities, also English mince pies (provided by the English organisers of the market, Margaret Leach & Martin Holborow), Belgian waffles, Thai soup, Hawaian fruit punch, French crepes and many more, all provided by residents of the village and the neighbouring town of Zelezna Ruda. Music was provided by musicians from the village.
Christmas services took place in the Protestant and Catholic churches on 24th December and the restaurants all closed early to allow their staff to spend at least part of the evening with their families. British guests at Haus Sterr (25 of them!) sat down to an early Christmas dinner at a village restaurant – now an annual event.
On Christmas Day, 25th December, the restaurants were all open for business again and the skiing on the Arber mountain was in full swing.
Boxing Day, 26th December, is the traditional time for the village ‘Heimat Abend’ – with displays of traditional dancing by adults and children, traditional music and, the highlight, the Schuhplattlers.
The local singing group performed Bavarian and international songs, accompanied by Gluehwein and waffles on 27th and Saturday 29th was the day for Bayerisch Eisenstein’s big, boisterous Apres Ski party, which was a sell out.
The New Year was welcomed as usual with a massive display of fireworks all over the village and the season was rounded off by the village’s own New Year’s Day Concert: Bavarian and Czech waltzes, polkas and marches, mixed with readings by Mayor Thomas Mueller.
What impressed us most was the huge range of musical talent and organisational skills in a village of barely 1,000 people. And the snow!
More than 1,000 visitors – residents of the village and surrounding area and holiday guests – visited the 1st International Christmas Market in Bayerisch Eisenstein yesterday, 23rd December. The international theme was chosen to celebrate the location of the village in the centre of Europe and directly on the border with Czech Republic, previously site of the barbed wire of the ‘iron curtain’, which finally disappeared on 21st December when Czech Republic joined the Schengen area. As well as Bohemian specialities from over the border, visitors enjoyed Bavarian specialities, also English mince pies (provided by the English organisers of the market, Margaret Leach & Martin Holborow), Belgian waffles, Thai soup, Hawaian fruit punch, French crepes and many more, all provided by residents of the village and the neighbouring town of Zelezna Ruda. Music was provided by musicians from the village.
This afternoon, we had the village advent market, in the Waldlerhuette, our village hall. This year, the stall with the advent crowns and other table decorations and wreaths covered almost the whole width of the hall. Within 20 minutes, there was hardly anything left! Other stalls were selling decorations, home made preserves and liqueurs, knitted socks and scarves and pottery. Much like a an English Christmas bazaar, except that this was mainly a social event. The stalls were around the sides and centre of the hall was filled with long tables, covered with white cloths and decorated with greenery and candles. All the benches filled quickly with locals and visitors, enjoying coffee and home make cakes. Entertainment was also provided – by the children of the village. The children of the kindergarten and primary school sang Christmas songs – quite strange to realise that, in spite of the German words, the songs included ‘Away in a manger’ and other familiar tunes. The kindergarten children had white chefs hats on for their part in a song about baking Christmas biscuits. Other children, some of them very young, showed amazing talent on the Flugel, the violin and guitar, some of them accompanied on the harp by the wife of the village mayor.
After a week of sunshine and warmer weather, winter is forecast to return at the weekend/next week with more snow. Skiing on the Arber is partially open all week now. www.arber.de. Skiing in Czech Republic is fully open from Friday 23rd November. www.spicak.cz
It always surprises me that so-called travel experts concentrate so heavily on hotel accommodation and frequently completely ignore self-catering accommodation for touring holidays. An apparently expert site in the US, giving its expertise to people travelling to Germany, Austria and Switzerland, devotes a lot of attention on its site and in its newsletters to getting the best deals for hotels and meals, while ignoring the advantages of self-catering.
Even the most basic of self-catering offers the advantages of more space than a hotel room and a lower price per head, as well as the possibility of making significant savings on restaurant meal costs with the option of eating in – which can involve little cooking if you buy ready prepared meals or take aways. And you just have more flexibility – you can have breakfast in your dressing gown and just a cup of coffee and a slice of toast if that is all you fancy. You can make yourself brunch mid morning if you want to sleep late and then set off sightseeing. You can make yourself a picnic lunch if you are going off walking or the budget is getting a bit strained. And of course you don’t have to worry about restaurant opening hours in the evening and can have a midnight snack any time you want.
Of course, there are disadvantages – most holiday rentals don’t offer a daily cleaning service – but many people are irritated by the arrival of housekeeping in hotels at inconvenient times and the feeling that you need to be out of their way while they clean. And you won’t normally have a flunky to help with your luggage. The lack of 24/7 concierge service could be a nuisance, but holiday rentals with on site managers or owners may well be prepared to give tourist advice, book tickets, recommend restaurants if you ask.
Perhaps the biggest problem with booking a holiday rental is finding one which has flexible booking periods – but there are many of them out there and they are easy enough to find by typing the dates you want into the search engines on the major rental sites and seeing what comes up.
Another problem is quality – how do you know that the apartment you book will be clean and well equipped? With a hotel there are international standards – they are not foolproof but they can be a good guide. There are rating systems for holiday rentals but few owners have their property rated. You need to look carefully at their entry on the website, preferably go to the owner’s own website – see how much care they have put into providing information on their website: that is a good guide as to how much care they have put into preparing the accommodation.
We have met many creative travellers using holiday rentals while touring. The 17-18 year old Inter Rail group from the UK (hugely entertaining, although we might take a damage deposit next time!). The large walking groups from the UK who book our apartments for a whole week and get more space for less money than they would in a pension, and we organise breakfast, evening meal and a coach trip to Cesky Krumlow for them. The Australian family travelling the world for 4 months with 2 teenage children and an 8 month old baby. The American family doing a stop over on their way back to Dubai. And the family who just wanted a few days stopover on the way back from their holiday in Spain. (The last 2 examples involved some unusual logistical solutions). And many more.
With a full service 5 star apartment, 3 double ensuite bedrooms, kitchen/dining room, large sitting room, 2 balconies and private garden costing just Euros 145 per night in total, wfirst day’s breakfast provided, large CD and DVD collection for evening entertainment and supplies of food and drink to buy, and owners always available with advice and help if needed, is there really a comparison with staying in a hotel. Unless you want to be pampered by lots of staff, or use the hotel swimming pool, it really is no contest!
And you can even check out our reviews on Trip Advisor www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g676079-d676076-Reviews-Haus_Sterr-Bayerisch_Eisenstein_Bavaria.html
And find details of other ‘owners who care’ at http://www.yourholidaymatters.com
Bright sunshine and blue skies today. Skiing all week on the Arber.
bavarian forest holidays 
