The Bavarian Forest National Park was the 1st National Park in Germany, founded in 1970,  and covers a large area from Bayerisch Eisenstein along the Czech border to the South.

 

The Park contains the largest area between the Atlantic and the Urals where nature is left to its own devices, allowing it to return over time to its natural ‘wilderness’ state.

 

The Park is 1 of only 3 in Germany which are internationally recognized according to the criterion that at least 75% of the Park area must be untouched by any human activity such as hunting or forestry.

 

HISTORY

 

The Forest was originally settled by monks from Niederalteich in the 11th century. From the 14th century onwards, the glass industry developed due to availability of timber and quartz in the area. At the beginning of the 19th century, ownership of the land in the area passed to the Bavarian state and systematic economic development of the forest began. As early as the middle of the 19th century, there were moves to protect the most ancient areas of forest in the area which was designated the first German National Park in 1969. The Park covers an area 40 kilometres long and 6 kilometres wide. One third of the area is above 1,000 feet above sea level.

 

GEOLOGY

 

The mountains of the Bavarian Forest were formed in the Tertiary period and reached their final form in the last ice age. The rocks are mainly gneiss and granite. Interesting geological sites are the area of granite blocks on the peak of the Lusen mountain and the Rachel Lake, formed in the last ice age, the only natural mountain lake in the National Park.

 

A display of typical rocks from the region can be seen next to the Natural Garden at Neuschoenau.

 

FORESTS

 

Spruce dominate the lower, valley, areas, up to 700 metres above sea level, with some birch on the moors, and fir.

 

Mixed forests dominate the slopes between 700 and 1,150 metres, mainly beech and fir. Spruce was not naturally widespread at this altitude but has become dominant through use over the years.

 

Above 1,150 metres, the slopes are relatively steep and the climate harsher. Here the mixed forests turns naturally into spruce, with occasional rowan berry and mountain ash.

 


 

The policy of the National Park is to ‘let nature be nature’ and allow the previously farmed forests to return to natural mixed low mountain forest. In the core of the National Park, nature is allowed to take its course, which means that the Borkenkaefer is allowed free access to the trees, which it kills. The effect of this can be seen on the Rachel and Lusen mountains – to the left if you take the road to Frauenau and Spiegelau. If you get closer, you can see that the forest is already starting to regenerate itself. Around that core area is the area where strenuous efforts are made to control the Borkenkaefer in order to prevent it from destroying the whole forest and migrating to privately owned land around. Currently the core area covers 10,000 hectares.

 

OTHER VEGETATION

 

The cool, damp climate and poor soil determine the animals and plants which flourish in the forest. The Forest does not boast a huge number of plant varieties but is home to many special plants which cope with the climatic conditions.

 

Typical plants of the forest landscape can be seen at the Natural Garden close to Hans Eisenmann Haus at Neuschoenau. More than 700 plant varieties can be seen in the 4 hectare garden, arranged in different types of habitat, all of them labelled. Examples of the plants, raised in the centre’s own nursery, are for sale in the shop.

 

ANIMALS

 

There are many threatened species which have found refuge in the National Park: otters, grouse, small owls and many woodpecker varieties. Lynx have returned to the Forest, from the neighbouring Bohemian Forest. Black storks and peregrine falcons have returned. Red deer, roe deer and wild boar are at home here.

 

The large game animals which are native to the area cannot survive all year within the National Park. In the winter, the high altitude areas where they spend the summers are snowbound and they need to come down to the lower areas which are outside the National Park area. These lower areas are mainly farms, residential or leisure areas or roads and therefore do not provide natural areas where these animals can live. Some animals such as wild boar and roe deer can survive in this situation but red deer cannot find large enough areas, partly due to the legally defined areas in which they can stay and also because of the low tolerance of many forest owners because of the damage they can cause. The structure of the animal population has also be changed by human influence in recent centuries and species such as elk have died out and others which are not indigenous have ventured towards the park. Bears, wolves and lynx became extinct in the first half of the 19th century, resulting in a lack of natural predators for the larger animals. Recently, lynx have come back to the Bavarian Forest, from the Czech Republic, and have helped to regulate the population of larger animals to a limited extent.

 


 

There are 3 areas in the National Park where indigenous animals can be seen in large enclosures:

 

Neuschoenau: because of the density of forests in the National Park, visitors rarely have a chance to glimpse the indigenous wildlife population such as black storks and lynx. The 250 hectare site at Neuschoenau is home to 45 varieties of birds and animals in enclosures which replicate their natural habitat, including bison, lynx, owls, wolves, wild boar, otters, brown bears, squirrels, pine martens, capercaillie, amongst others (Parts of the forest are closed to visit to protect the capercaillie, which are in danger of dying out). The main entrance is at the P1 car park, close to the Hans Eisenmann Visitor Centre. There is no entrance fee for the animal enclosures but there is a fee for parking. The enclosure area is open all year and always accessible. In winter, the paths are cleared and gritted. The paths are well signposted and suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs. The complete route is 7 kilometres and the recommendation is to allow 3-4 hours to complete it. There are 2 short cuts which reduce the distance to 3 kilometres and the time needed to 1 hour.

 

Ludwigsthal: 4 animal enclosures, with animals which would have lived in the area in ice age times – horses, cattle,  lynx and wolves.

 

Scheuereck red deer enclosures: 9 hectare site with a 300 metre path through the middle and 2 viewing platforms. The enclosures can be visited at any time of year but end September/early October is when the rutting season presents the most exciting experience. There is a covered viewing area so that winter feeding can be observed even during bad weather.

 

WATER

 

The watershed between the Danube and the Elbe, between the Black Sea and the North Sea runs roughly along the border with the Czech Republic. Most of the streams rising in the Bavarian Forest flow into tributaries of the Danube: the Ilz and the Regen. Only a few flow across the border into the Elbe. Many of the streams in the forest were cleared and their banks strengthened with stones, to be used for transporting logs, thus losing their original character. The Rachelsee is the only natural mountain lake within the National Park, formed by retreating glaciers. There are also still ponds on the high moors of the forest. The water in the region is very soft and slightly acid.

 


 

INFORMATION CENTRES

 

Hans Eisenmann Haus, Neuschoenau, has information on the National Park and a relief model of the Park. There are slide and film shows and an exhibition on the Eco-System of the National Park. Open 09.00-17.00 every day, closed 2nd week November, reopens 26th December. At or near Hans Eisenmann Haus are animal enclosures, a natural garden and a display of typical rocks.

 

Haus zur Wildnis, Ludwigsthal, covers the Falkenstein-Rachel area of the National Park, reached by footpath from the car park/railway station at Ludwigsthal, past the model ice age cave and animal enclosures. The centre shows 3D films and has a playroom, shop and restaurant. Open 09.30-17.00 from 26th December to 31st March and 09.30 to 18.00 from 1st April to 2nd week in November. At or near Haus zur Wildnis are animal enclosures and the red deer enclosures at Scheuereck.

 

FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN

 

Forest Playground: a 50 hectare site in the forest, with playgrounds, a nature trail and a meadow with barbecue facilities. It can be reached from the ‘Waldspielgelaende Parkplatz’ (car park on the edge of Spiegelau. Follow the Tapfauenauge circular path (suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs) for about 1 hour. Refreshments and toilets are available.